by EMERSON SLOANE
As early as 1883, the Chicago and North Western Railway Company was distributing a 12 page booklet titled Regulations for the Guidance of Conductors, Cooks, and Waiters of the Dining Cars for dining-car crews. Then, each crew member had to sign an acknowledgement that they understood the rules and would comply. If you lost your manual during your employment, its cost was recovered from your paycheck.
From such a brief beginning evolved numerous books of several hundred pages in length describing everything from requisitions and supplies to charts of appropriate fruits and vegetables and their appropriate "seasons." There were illustrations on how to carve beef, poultry, and fish. From the smallest details, there were instructions for each dining car server on operating the dining car, setting it up for service, and preparing and presenting the food.
SILVERWARE SETUP: Streamliners and Standard Trains
BREAKFAST MEAL
One fork to the left of napkin
One table knife to right of napkin; cutting edges to napkin
One dessert spoon adjacent to knife
Two teaspoons adjacent to dessert spoon
LUNCH & DINNER MEALS
Two forks to the left of napkin
One table knife to right of napkin
One bouillon spoon adjacent to knife
One butter knife adjacent to bouillon spoon
Two teaspoons adjacent to butter knife
Waiter to bring dessert spoon with entrees requiring this service
DOME ROUND TABLES & DOME DUCES
Flower vase adjacent to window
Menu holder adjacent to vase
Cube (or indiv. pack) sugar bowl adjacent to menu holder to right when viewed from aisle
Salt and pepper shakers; salt facing aisle; pepper facing window
Granulated sugar bowl to left, adjacent to menu holder
Water pitcher on large round tables facing kitchen
Dining car inspections were rigorous by chefs de cuisine and at times resulted in sternly worded comments like this about the cooking of vegetables:
Too little attention is paid to the preparation, service, and seasoning of vegetables. All vegetables should be thoroughly washed in cold water before cooking. This is important, as vegetables, while they are growing, come into contact with fertilizers and sprays used against insects.
Use only as much water in cooking as is absolutely necessary to prevent burning, so that vegetables will absorb all the moisture and help prevent their valuable minerals, salts, and vitamins from escaping. It also keeps their color and taste. Don't overcook and don't prepare large quantities at one time; stagger the cooking so that the late as well as early dining car patrons will be served vegetables which are freshly cooked, colorful, and palatable....
Now that you've got all the rules down, it's time for a few of the great recipes from the golden age of the dining cars. Our first trip is on the Atcheson, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railway System for some hearty and delicious corn chowder--one of my favorites.
New Corn Chowder, Southern Style
The key to this delicious soup is to gently scrape the kernels off the corn cob with a table knife so the skins remain on the cob, leaving you with only the fresh pulp.
4 sprigs parsley
1 leek
1/2 carrot, cut lengthwise
1 stalk celery, 1-inch slice, including leaf
1/4 bay leaf
pinch of sage
pinch of thyme
2 thick slices of bacon, diced
1 cup new corn pulp from cob
1/2 cup onions
1/2 cup celery, chopping fine
4 cups chicken broth
3/4 cup raw potatoes, diced
1 1/2 cup peeled tomatoes, chopped
pinch of cayenne pepper
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 tsp. cornstarch
Use a 12 inch square of cheesecloth to make a bouquet garni of parsley, leek, carrot, celery, bay leaf, sage, and thyme and set aside. In a large saucepan over medium heat, first soften bacon, then add corn, onions, and celery, and sauté until tender, about five minutes. Add chicken broth, potatoes, tomatoes, and bouquet garni. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and slow boil for one hour. Remove bouquet garni. Add cayenne pepper. Meanwhile, using fingers, dissolve cornstarch in heavy cream at room temperature. Add cornstarch/cream mixture to soup and stir until heated through. 8 servings.
The next leg of our journey takes us on the Missouri Pacific Railroad for a little appetizer.
Fried Oysters with Remoulade Sauce
6 oysters
flour to coat
1 egg, well beaten
1/4 up bread crumbs
Drain and bread oysters by dipping in flour, then in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs Drop in preheated deep fryer until crips and slightly browned. Remove, and drain. To serve, place on a platter with Remoulade sauce and include a generous scoop of cole slaw.
REMOULADE SAUCE
1 hard-boiled egg
2 Tbsp. parsley, chopped very fine
1 Tbsp. capers, chopped very fine
1 cup mayonnaise
1 tsp. anchovy paste
Mix all ingredients together well.
Aboard, the Southern Pacific, it's almost dinner time.
Curried Chicken Colombo with Indian Chutney
1 2-3 lb. chicken, cut up
1/4 lb flounder fillet
3 oz. butter
1/2 cup onions, finely chopped
1/2 cup green pepper, diced
1 banana, peeled and sliced
2 slices pineapple, cut small
pinch of garlic, minced
1 Tbsp. flour
1 Tbsp. curry powder
1/2 cup Indian chutney (recipe follows)
3 cups chicken broth
salt to taste
1 cup cooked rice
Wash and disjoint the chicken, saving breasts and legs, or begin with some chicken parts. Place flounder fillets on lightly greased baking sheet in the oven to bake dry and crisp, about 25 minutes. Flake the louder and set aside. In the large saucepan, over medium heat, melt butter. Add onions and green peppers, reduce heat, cover and braise until cooked soft, about 5 minutes. Add banana, pineapple, and garlic, stir, and let cook for another minute.
Then, stirring constantly, sprinkle in flour and curry powder. Cook until lightly browned, then add chutney and chicken broth. Let simmer for 20 minutes, then pass through a strainer into a 3-quart saucepan and bring to a simmer. Meanwhile, salt the chicken parts, dredging lightly in flour, and fry in hot oil, turning occasionally, until nicely colored. Drain and put into curry sauce, cover, and let simmer for 20 minutes. Serve on a bed of rice, and garnish with flakes of dried flounder.
INDIAN CHUTNEY
3 medium sized ripe tomatoes
1 cup seeded raisins, chopped
1 cup green apples, chopped
1/2 cup onions, minced
2 Tbsp. salt
3/4 lb. brown sugar
1 cup cider vinegar
2 oz. white mustard seeds
1 oz. preserved ginger
pinch of cayenne pepper
Peel and quarter the tomatoes. In a 2-quart saucepan, combine all ingredients well. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and cook slowly, uncovered, for 3 hours. Store in airtight container in refrigerator.
And, for dessert, we step aboard the Great Northern.
Gingerbread Crumb Pudding with Butterscotch Sauce
4 eggs
2 cups milk
1 1/2 cups sugar
1 cup molasses
1/2 tsp. cinnamon
1/2 cup butter, melted
1 lb. loaf stale raised white bread, grated
Butter a 9 x 13 baking dish thoroughly and set aside. In a large mixing bowl, beat eggs until of light lemon color. Continue beating and gradually add milk, sugar, ginger, molasses, cinnamon, and melted butter. Mix well. Add grated bread and stir until well mixed. Pour the mixture into the buttered baking dish and place dish in a pan filled with hot water to within one inch of the top of the pudding dish. Place in oven and bake for one hour, or until a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Spoon pudding into serving dishes and top with butterscotch sauce.
BUTTERSCOTCH SAUCE
4 Tbsp. cornstarch
1/2 cup cold water
1 Tbsp. sugar
2 1/2 cups water
1 3/4 cups sugar
1 heaping tsp. powdered cocoa
5 drops vanilla extract
4 Tbsp. butter
Dissolve cornstarch in cold water and set aside. In the saucepan over medium heat, melt 1 tablespoon of sugar until browned to a golden color. Add water and the remaining sugar, bring to a boil, and continue to boil for 3 minutes. Add cocoa, vanilla extract, and butter. Stir to mix and simmer to a glaze. Slowly add cornstarch to boiling liquid and simmer until thickened.
We hope you enjoyed your trip. Until next time...
© 2015 Haven Style. All rights reserved.